Means for ornamenting materials



Jar 1.30, 1945.

A. GLUCKMAN I MEANS FOR ORNAMEN'I'ING MATERIALS Filed July'15, 1942 5 Sheets-Sheet. 2

I 1 INVENTOR: Abrafia'm Glue/(man BY 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Mb v NW I I I l i I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I .J

Jan. 30, 1945. Uc N MEANS FOR ORNAMENTING MATERIALS Filed July 15, 1942 Q msu INVEVTOR: V Abmkam Gluukman BY A TWA/6' 3! Jan. 30, 1945.

A. GLUCKMAN MEANS FOR ORNAIMENTIYNG MATERIEALS Filed July 15, 1942 5 SheetsSheet 4 mmvmm Abraham 6 Zuc/iman AT'TOKAEY Jan. 30, 1945. GLUCKMAN MEANS FOR ORNAMENTING MATERIALS 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed July 15, 1942 1 II/film S li!!! INVENTOR. Abraham Glue/ man BY and to-such ornamented materials.

I form, and having a Patented Jan, 30, 1945 UNITED i {orrlce l M ANS non {ORNAMENIING MATERIALS A .Abraham Gluckman, Brooklyn, N. Y.' ,\assignor.to, I I

Herman B. Delman, New 1Yor'k, N I. I I I Claims; I (or. Ina-#2) My invention relates to means and methods for ornamenting materials, more particrilarly'ior producing ornamental stripes, bands, or other designs, upon leatherjfabrics, and other such materials *generallyrused in. making shoes, belts, bags, and many other articles of merchandise,

One 'of' the principal objects of the 'inventi'onis' to produce an ornamentedmaterialhaving colored matter applied to the same in aline or stripe line or lines of stitching adjacent the stripe. I I

Another 3 object is to produce such colored stripes or bands, with or without such stitching, in a variety of efiects difiering in width, .thickness, and other characteristics. v v A principal object of the invention is to. produce a material having substantially raised ornamenta l stripes thereon, with or without adjacent Stitching. I I i j .1

Another object .otthe invention; is to provide a method for producing such ornamented .materials.

Another object is to provide mechanism for I applying the ornamenting substance to the material in a .line or stripe form. A further object In the said drawings, "which form a part of this specification, I v

Fig. 1 is a diagramm tic view, on'a mnch're duced scale, showing mechanism embodying my invention and adapted for carrying' out my p 5 r Y Q 1 -Figi 2 is a front elevational view, on a larger scale, of the main operating parts of (one em bodimentof'mymechanism; Fig. 3 is front elevational' vi-ew, on a scale' approximatelythat of the actual device, and partly in section'showi-ng parts of the same mecha nism; the container for the striping 'fhii'd' leeing to simplify the drawings;

is to provide such mechanism which shall'simultaneously stitch a lineyor lines; adjacent the stripe asit is formed. 1 t l Further objects are to provide such mecha- .nism which is adapted to form'a curved stripe with adjacent stitching simultaneously 'formed at each side thereof; to provide mechanism in which the ornamenting substance is fed by compressed air", to pnovide .mechanisnr for applying a. visa cons ornamenting' fluid, and-to provide "mechanism by whichthe ornamenting .fluid isapplied from an outletspaced from the material to per-'- mit "a viscous fluid/from the outlet to forma raised stripe onthe material.

, Further objects and advantages ofthe "invention will appear. as the description proceeds, or willtbe obvious to those skilled in theart to which this invention relates, without beingiparticularly pointed out.

With the above and other objects of the invention in view, the invention "consists in the novel ornamented material, in the novel method, and in the novel construction, arrangement and combination of various devices, elements and parts,

all as defined in the claims hereof, certainembodiments of the "same being illustrated in the accompanying drawings and "described in this specification.

broken between its'ends to save space; 15

Figf is a side view; partly in section, of "the lower portion of the same, showing also portions of the-presserfoot and of one of the sewing needles-3" I Fig. 5 illustrates apiece of ornamented ma 'teria'l, -'-inthis case-leather, made according to thisinvention; J

Figfiis a iront v-iew, again onareduced scale, showing amodification of the mechanism, certain parts of the sewing machine ="being "diagrammatically indicated and other parts being omitted Fig. "7 is atop view of'the same; 1

Figs. {3 i and '9 illustrate different forms of strip ing tips; 1 v Figs. "1-9 and 11' are fragmentary plan-, v-iews, partly "in section, showing diagrammatically the forming of the stripes in relation to the stitches,

my methodmay be carried. out, by the use -of'the means herein shown andr'described, orby other means. The method will 'be in large part clear from'the description-of the OperationofTthe mechanism, and; is also further referred to below; the j novel ornamented material, the-"par ticular characteristics otthe striping produced, I etc.) are also referred to in cconnection with the mechanism, and furtherdescribed below. I

' 'In the following description and in the claims,

the words""paint; 1acquer,""etc., are-used in referrin g'to the striping substance, but are in} tendedfto refer to any suitable substance for the purpose,v except where obviously otherwise in tendedfas where the-context indicates "thata specific material is meant. In the claims also, the word body is used in a general sense to include the head, supporting bed, etc., of the sewing machine, where the general sense so indicates.

A machine embodying my invention may be constructed as a whole, but I prefer to make the same as an attachment for a sewing machine, and to utilize the feeding means of the latter, as well as the sewing means when it is desired to. provide stitching parallel with the band of striping substance. For this reason, I have shown parts of a sewing machine of conventional type in the drawings of my mechanism, the same being indicated more or less diagrammatically,

however, in the various views, and many parts, the illustration of which is not necessary to' an understanding of the invention, being omitted to simplify the drawings, as the construction and operation thereof will be well understood by those familiar with such machines.

Referring now to Figs. 1 to 4, my invention is there illustrated asan attachment for, and utiliz- -ing parts of,.a conventional type of sewing machine, suitable for stitching leather, and having a pair of sewing needles. indicates a supporting table, 2| indicates the head of the sewing machine, and 22 its body, '23, 23, indicate the sewing needles, which may in practice be carried by a cross-head (not shown) vertically reciprocating in the head 2!. 24 indicates a presserfoot, which is carried by a shank 25, being either integral therewith as shown, or attached thereto. The foot 24 is of substantially conventional form and curvature, but comprises two fingers only, rather than three as sometimes used in two needle machines, it being necessary to leave the central part open for the application of the striping substance. g

30 indicates the container for the striping paint; this container is cylindrical, with a tapering lower end, and is held in vertically slidable relation to the head 2| by a ring 3| attached at 32 to the head. The lower end of the container 30 is rigidly connected by a tube 35 to the body of a needle-valve 36, which is in turn attached by a clamp 40 to the shank of:the presser-foot, and is vertically adjustable thereon by a screw 40'. When the foot and shank are raised, by the usual lever or other means at the back of the machine (not shown), the body of thevalve 36 is raised with it, the cylinder also rising a distance equal to the upward movement of the presser-foot and its shank 25.

The construction of the valve 36 is best seen in Fig. 3. A tip 43 is inserted in threaded engagement at the lower end of the valve, and has a central bore into which extends the valve-needle 31. This needle passes thru an aperture in the top cap 4| and is adjustably secured in stationary position in a bracket'38 by a set-screw 39, the bracket-being attached to the head 2| of the sewing machine, When the presser-foot and thereby the body 36 of the valve, is lowered, the passage is open for the paint to pass from the container 30, thru the tube and valve 36, and out thru the'tip; on raising the foot, the bore of the tip is closed by the needle 37. The mounting of the valve on the shank 25 should usually be such that the end of the tip is about /8 inch from the surface of the material being decorated, when the foot is lowered, but this distance may be varied according to the type of paint being used; the needle is adjusted relatively to the bracket 38, in a position to close the valve when The tip' 43 or 44 (see Fig. 3), makes it possible to apply a curved line as well as a straight band, the stitches following the line of paint in correct relation, due to the fact that the two points of stitching and the point of application of the paint, lie in a straight transverse line, rather than forming, as it were, three points of a triangle, as in Fig. 11, which is satisfactory for a straight band.

,33 indicates piping bywhich compressed air is introduced into the cylinder 30, from an airpump 34 (Fig. 1) or other source, to force the paint out thru the valve 36. 3! indicates the top clcsure of the container 30, in this casea screw cap.

The paint used may be of various degrees of thickness or viscosity, and other characteristics, and should be selected according to the character of the material being decorated and the type of ornamentation desired. By using a viscous paint, applied by air pressure rather than by a wheel or other member in contact with the material, it is possible to produce a raised stripe such as illustrated in Fig. 5. The stripe may be continuously straight-edged, or may be made to have a slight variation due to the fact that the paint is applied continuously whereas the material ordinarily travels by a step-by-step movement; a proper relation between the substance of the paint and the speed of operation can control the appearance or non-appearance of this variation, the pause in the travel of the material at the time the sewing needle passes therethru being of course very slight during rapid operation.

The operation of the above mechanism will be clear from what has been said. As the material being decorated passes rearwardly under the lowered presser-foot, the striping and stitching are simultaneously formed, but as soon as the foot is raised, the flow of paint is stopped. At the time of raising the foot, a card or other flat device may be placed with its edge at the point where the stripe should end, and any small amount of paint continuing ,to flow from the tip is then received on the card and not on the leather, thus producing a neat, sharp end to the stripe. The stitching is produced simultaneously by the ordinary mechanism of the sewing machine, and the effect is that of an attractive decoration, which may either resemble a band sewed to the leather, if the stitches are placed close to the striping, or if the stitches are spaced slightly away, a triple line is produced. A flat stripe is made by using a more fluid paint, and a stripe having a longitudinal line or crease on its surface, or other such'efiects,-may be had by using a paint which dries quickly upon its outside" surface'and said surface thereafter shrinks slightly. In any case, a fairly quick-drying paint should be used, for convenience in handling the material. In many cases, the stitching may not bodesired; the sewing needles are easily removed, and the plain stripe produced by the remaining mech anism, utilizing the feed of the machine.

air pressure-and the opening of the needle-valve, simultaneously with the starting and stopping, orthechange of speed, of the sewing machine.

50 indicates-a supporting table; on which is shown a sewing machine having ahead it and body 52. The needles, presser-foot, etc are omitted from these views, but will be well understood without illustration. The co-operati'on of the sewing needles with the other parts ofthe device is the same as in the previous embodiment, as well as the operation of forming the stripe, the variations therein, etc, but in this case there is 'noattachment of the needle valve to the pressesfoot, and the flow of paint isotherwisecontrolled. The presser-foot will be of the same type as before.

15 indicates the paint container, which is clamped to the head 5l at 62, being held in fixed (though vertically adjustable) relation, by the support 61'. 1 63 indicates the tube by which compressed air is received from a pump, not shown, and [00 the tube by which it is delivered into thecontainer 6D. A valve I03 controls the fiowofair, as below referred to. Y 65 indicates the tube connecting the containe 60 with the needle valve 65. A bracket 68, shown as integral with the body of the valve, is attached at 68" to the body of the machine. 61 indicates the valve needle, which is freely slid'ablevertically in a finger 6'9 extending from the bracket, .58, extends thlu the cap H of the valve, "and operates in the same manner relatively to the valve "and tip as in the previous embodiment, the relative movementin this embodiment, however, being by vertical movement of the needle rather than by vertical movement of the body of the valve toward and away from the needle, as before.

93 indicates an l -shaped member,"pivo.tally. mounted at 94 in the bracket'BB, and which serves to raise and lower the needle 61, being operated by means described below. The needle passes thru the end-of the lower leg 93 of the member 93, a stop 96 being adjustableon the needle by a set-screw 91, and a loose Washer 98 being interposed between the stop and the leg 93' tofacilitate easy motion of the parts. A spring. 95 surrounds the needle, its ends bearing against the finger B9 and the stop 96. When the L -shaped member is moved to the right (as shown in dotted line: in Fig. 12), the needle is raised, to a-greater or less extent accordingto the setting of the stop 9.6 (and also according to the extentof movement of the treadle 84 as below explained) when p the member 93 moves back to its full-linepo'sie tion in Fig. 12,, the spring 95 depresses the needle into the bore of the tip and the valve is closed. In order that the movement of the needle into and out of the tip may vary the amount of paint passing thru the valve according. to theiposition of the needle, rather than the valvemerely'abe ing entirely open or entirely closed, theneedle is made-slightly tapering, as will be readily understood, 13 and I4 indicate brackets,.fixed to the bed of the sewing machine, and which support a rotatable cross-shaft 15 between their upper ends. An

. arm H is adjustably fixed to this shaft by a set-crew 18 in a ring 11 secured to said arm, and

I 'In the modification shown in Figs. 6 and 7 meansare. shown for automatically varying the the shaft 15, is pivotally connected at 82 to a vertical. rod 8i, the lower end of which is conneoted to the treadle 84 which controls the opera tion ot the sewing machine. 83' indicates a spring whicl'iserves' to'raise the lever 80.

as indicates an electric. motor for actuating the sewing machine, and 86 and 81 indicate diagram; mati'cally the connections from the treadle 84 to the motor 85-, which are such that the extent to which the rear of the treadle is depressed or raised controls the speed as well as the starting and stopping of the machine. These connections may be of conventional or any suitable type for the purpose.

l (W indicates an arm extending vertically from the connectingrod or bar 90, and which serves to operate the valve H13. This is a conical type ofval've, or of any suitable form, and the movement of the connecting bar 90 to the right opens the valve, more or less according to the extent of such movement, and permits the compressed air to flow from the pipe'63 and-thru the pipe I00,

into the paint container 60.

l- Hl indicates the cap of the container '60, which is held in place by as'crew l l l which passes thru an arched bracket securely attached to a band H4 fixed to the container; rotation of the screw by the handle H2 secures or releases the cap 1 It).

It will be seen from the above, that'depressing the rear half of the treadle 84 to a greater or less extent, simultaneously varies. the speed of the sewing machine, in the usual or any suitable manner, and by the operation of the parts described varies the degree of opening of both the needle valve 66 and the. air-valve, I03. When the machine 'operates'rapidly and th leather passes Y steadily backward,'a steady stream of paint is forced outward thru the striping tip and forms an even stripe between the lines of stitching; if the speed of the machine is reduced forfany reason for instance, when approaching the end of a line of decoration, or to turn, a curve), the flow of paint is automatically and simultaneously diminished, and if the machine is stopped, the flow of. paint stops at the same moment. v

[In Figs. 8', 9,. l3- and 14, variousv forms -0f;tip are shown, that in Fig.8 having the forward curve to carry its outlet to apointdirectly between the needles, asv shown in Figs. 4 and 10; in Fig. 9 a tip having a straight bore is shown, which would deposit the paint at a. point behind the needles, asv indicated in, Fig. 11, and in Figs. 13 and 14. a. tip is shown in which th lower end of the bore is widened into a slot 46. p

, My method maybe carried out by either ofthe above'embodiments of my mechanism, or otherwise. It has been known heretofore to apply striping by a wheel brother means of applying the same directly to the surface of the material being decorated. In my process, the striping is.

. applied by air pressurev or the like, which forces a connecting bar 90 extends from the arm 16 to the same outfrom the container inform the stripe. and the adhesion is due to the selection of suitable fluids. I prefer to use a viscous fluid, having sufficient body to form a raised stripe. A quick-drying material is preferably used, forconvenience.

leathers, the same must be of such composition as to adhere thereto.

The stripe alone produces an attractive ornamental effect, and the stitching may be omitted respectively. .A lever fixed to the rear end or Certain materials will dry in such manner as to form a rounded top surface; others,

if desired. My invention also provides, however, for the simultaneous forming of the stitches, which may be either placed close to the stripe, thus giving the effect of a band of material sewed to the sheet being decorated, or may be spaced therefrom, giving a triple line. The stitches may be made to match, harmonize, or contrast, with the stripe, as desired.

By applying the striping fluid at a. point between the sewing needles, it is possible to form a design including curves as well as straight lines, as the turning of each of the row of stitches and of the line of striping will occur simultaneously, as the material is moved under the presser-foot.

A variation in the air pressure, as well as a variation in the paint, may be used to produce a variation in the stripe; such variation may be either an adjustment for each piece of work, or the pressure may be varied, in either form of the device described or in other means used, during the application of the stripe. Means for such purpose, other than the special means described, will readily occur to those familiar with such mechanism, and need not be described in detail.

My invention also includes the ornamented material such as herein referred to. The novel appearance of this material is illustrated in one embodiment in Fig. 5, in which a series of raised straight stripes having closely adjacent lines of stitching, is shown upon a piece of leather. From the description herein in connection with the means and method, and the statement of objects of the invention, many variations within the scope of the invention will be obvious or will readily occur to mind.

The invention has been found to produce a very attractive ornamentation for leather used in making ladies fine shoes, but is not limited thereto, as it may be used upon leather for other purposes, and on many other materials, either for shoes or for other articles of manufacture, as above mentioned or otherwise.

I do not limit myself to the particular details of method, means, or product, which are herein shown and described, as it is obviou that the same refer to and set forth only certain embodiments of my invention, and the same may be varied, within the scope of the claims hereof, without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. In a machine for ornamenting materials, wherein the material is fed thru the machine during ornamentation thereof, and comprising a body, a presser-foot movably mounted in said body, and means co-operating therewith to move said material thru said machine, that improvement which comprises a container for a viscous fluid coloring matter, an outlet for said fluid adjacent said presser-foot, a valve controlling the flow of said fluid thru said outlet, and means for introducing compressed air into said container; said valve comprising a needle for closing said outlet, adjustably mounted in stationary relation to the body of the machine, and the body of the valve being connected to said presser-foot and movable therewith, whereby the flow of fluid thru said outlet is stopped by the raising of the presser-foot to stop the movement of the material being decorated, and said outlet is opened by lowering said presser-foot into operative position.

2. The construction defined in claim 1, together with said container being vertically movably mounted on the body of said machine and rigidly connected to the body of said valve.

3. The construction defined in claim 1, together with a pair of sewing needles and means co-operating therewith to form lines of stitching parallel with the stripe of said fluid.

4. In a machine for ornamenting materials such as leather or fabric, comprising a body, means for feeding material through the machine during ornamentation thereof, means for actuating said machine, a treadle and means connected therewith for controlling the operation of said machine, that improvement which comprises a container for a fluid to form a stripe on said material, an outlet for-said fluid adjacent said feeding means, a valve controlling the flow of fluid through said outlet, means for introducing compressed air into said container to feed said fluidtherefrom, a valve controlling the flow of said air into said container, and means connected with said treadle for simultaneously opening said fluid valve and said air valve when said treadle is moved to actuate said machine and simultaneously closing said valves to stop the flow of fluid when said treadle is moved to stop the operation of the machine, said valve comprising a body and a needle for closing said outlet, and said treadleoperated means comprising an L-shaped member pivotally mounted with relation to the body of the valve and adapted to raise said needle into open position, a spring for depressing said needle into closed position, a shaft rotatably supported with relation to said machine and having a fixed arm thereon, a-bar connecting said L-shaped member and said arm, whereby rotation of said shaft moves said L-shaped member, a finger on said bar for operating said air valve, a lever fixed to said shaft, and a link connecting said lever with said treadle.

5. In a machine for ornamenting materials such as leather or fabric, wherein the material is fed through the machine during ornamentation thereof, and comprising a body, means for feeding said material through the machine, and means for forming parallel lines of stitching, that improvement which comprises a container for a viscous fluid coloring matter, an outlet for said fluid for feeding said viscous fluid to form a raised ornamental stripe on said material between said lines of stitching, a valve controlling the flow of said fluid through said outlet and means for introducing compressed air into said container, said valve comprising a needle for closing said outlet and means for automatically producing relative movement between said needle and said outlet to open and close said outlet simultaneously with the starting and stopping of the stitch forming mechanism.

- ABRAHAM GLUCKMAN. 

